Just three months after its last collection ‘Le Splash’ quite literally cooked up a storm in Hawaii, Jacquemus has returned to the limelight with another spectacle of a show. Over the years, the brand’s creative director and founder Simon Porte Jacquemus has become known for his over-the-top presentations – a notable mention to his Provence lavender field runway – each of which draw out a star-studded celebrity crowd every time.
For this occasion, the brand’s new collection, ‘Le Papier’, was displayed at the salt-rock mountains of Arles in the south of France, through which a dramatic runway was carved out to make way for the slew of models sporting the upcoming season’s artisanal pieces.
The autumn/winter 2022 line consisted of a staggering total of 61 looks, with garments donning raw, natural colourings, a stark contrast to the bold hues from his previous collection, which boasted neon pinks and greens on a range of beach-worthy attire.
Much of the subtly sculptural looks consisted of linen tailoring, raw edges and simplistic silhouettes, drawing inspiration from artistic references, such as the Giacometti brothers, whose plaster sculptures held significance to Jacquemus’ final designs.
Other pieces showed either links to workwear uniform or ceremonial garments, with bows and dramatic tulle trains mirroring wedding-like aesthetics in somewhat deconstructed versions couture silhouettes.
However, the most notable pieces from the show came in the form of a brief nod to Jacquemus’ highly anticipated Nike collaboration. The duo’s Humara sneaker was styled with ribbed knit dresses and puffer jackets, among other things. Other parts of the collection came in the form of minimal womenswear silhouettes and lingerie details utilising technical cuts.